Q. I recently bought a house built in the mid 1800s, in the basement it is all limestone: the walls, ceiling and stairs. I really want to keep the old look in the basement but I also live in Kansas and we have a lot of tornados so it needs to be safe. I just need to know how to seal it up and make it as strong as possible. Also the floors are dirt I was wondering if anyone had any ideas for the floors to go with the old look.

A. If the limestone is smooth and doesn't need any refinishing (or if you like it the way it is) you can just apply stone sealer (they have various tints, so you can choose). Old, sun-bleached barn wood always looks great on basement walls, if you want to cover the limestone. If the ceiling is high enough, you could add some character to that by putting in rafters (with the necessary support frame placed in the corners. As for the flooring, anything you put down would have to have some type of sub-flooring underneath to keep out moisture and dampness. Although it would be quite a job to accomplish, concrete would be best. Once you have that done, you could use concrete stain (there are beautiful choices for refinishing concrete these days) and then just use area rugs to accent the floor. http://www.concretenetwork.com/stained-concrete/ http://www.finishabasement.org/how-to-finish-a-basement-on-a-budget.html#more-56

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. I was wondering what to use to kill the bleach and what kind of materials are good for basement remodels. If it would be better to get mold resistant or moisture resistant. Also what kind of ventilation is required in a basement. And maybe some cons on wood paneling because that was what they were planning on putting down there and I think it's a terrible idea.

A. Before you spend all that money remodeling your basement make sure he is not going to flood again Have a waterproofing company install an internal perimeter drainage system to collect all the water around and under your foundation and divert it to a sump pump. The sump pump will then get the water out and discharge it away from the foundation. Only then you can safely remodel your basement. As for materials I recommend you avoid drywall, wood studs and fiberglass insulation. All these materials are know to absorb water and grow mold. Fiberglass also loses all its R-Value when humid. I suggest you look into finishing systems developed specifically for basements, considering that even basements that do not flood or leak, always have some level of moisture - usually ground moisture seeping in through the concrete basement walls. Since not all theses systems are created equal, make sure you pick one that is 100% waterproof, non-absorbent and inorganic. Cement core, rigid foam board insulated panels and plastic basement flooring tiles for example are made to withstand all sorts of basement conditions and will never get ruined even if your basement floods again. They also offer thermal and moisture protection and can be removed to access plumbing and wiring as needed - a very desirable feature in a basement.

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. I am in the planning phase of finishing our basement, and wondered where the best place was to buy materials and supplies. I'm asking more about drywall, lumber, screws, etc. since this will be the most expensive part of the first phase. Are the Big Box stores (Lowes, Home Depot, etc.) the most cost effective choice, or is there a more cost effective alternative? The first poster brought up an interesting point. I'm located in the Kansas City area, so local options would be the best solution.

A. If your material costs are over $1,500 go to Home Depot contractor desk. Tell them you would like pricing form "the bid room". When you give them a material list, they run their regular pricings and then cut At least 8% off, and more if the order is substantial. Take a material list to multiple stores and get quotes. They are free. Then compare pricings line by line, and you can save some money by getting material from multiple sources. Hope this helps

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. The house was built in 1920; the walls are very damp and I'm sure there's mildew. I would really like to create a living space downstairs, and I was wondering how much it would cost to waterproof/refinish? Any ideas? Tips?

A. My tip/idea: You know, the easiest thing you can do is to call home remodelers in your area--or instead of calling, use the link below--and get Free estimates from them as to the cost involved in refinishing the basement. (Home remodelers usually do all trades in general related to your basement, etc.) This is the only true way of assessing the cost involved, as the cost of material and labor greatly varies by location; so what one person says on here does not get you any closer to understanding what costs are involved in this project without the use of local contractor estimates. Here is a handyman site I use often, which has a section devoted to home improvement articles, where you'll also find towards the far left bottom of the following home improvement page a bright, kind-of-orange home-guru Bob Villa-endorsed ad that offers up to four (4) Free estimates that can be given to you very fast from local remodeling contractors in your area (again, this free-estimate offer is towards the very left-bottom of the following linked page): http://yourhandymanzone.com/Your_Handyman_Zone_How_To_Pages_Home_Improvement_Zone.htm Like I said, get a hold of some local remodelers. In exchange for giving them work, you also might be able to get a good deal on the material from the remodeling contractor, since, usually, they have access to wholesale pricing on building material given the great amount of installations they do. That's the way to go. Good luck with your project!

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. Owens Corning is just to expensive are there and good competitors for the wall paneling system?

A. As an x employee I can tell you the Owens Corning system is intentionally over priced so the independent sales people can make money. You can get the system for 38% off list if you hold out until they recontact you after showing the sales person the door. However if you don't have any water issues which cause mold and mildew there are alternatives available.

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. I am remodeling my basement. The current exterior walls are 2x2 nailed to block and covered with sheetrock. I plan to add a 2x4 'bumpout' against the old 2x2 along the entire exterior walls that will be 36" high. The problem is if I do this the electrical wires in the the old boxes will not meet regulation of <=6" and <= 3" extending beyond the box. Can I abandon the old 15a electrical circuit (disconnect) and run a new circuit though the bumpout and new boxes I will install or can I not run electrical circuits through a partial wall?

A. As long as you plan to abandon the old, go ahead and wire up the new. Its fine.

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. I used 3 1/2" fiberglass paper backed insulation. Would water proof drywall be better? The basement walls have no leaks appears dry.

A. You've done everything right so far. Go ahead and hang green board while you are at this stage. It doesn't cost that much more and might save you down the road. Here are some links t5hat might help you...

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. Should I make it one open space that a buyer could use as a gym or game room, or make a closed-off bedroom and make the rest of the space as a living area? The basement has a separate half-bath and a walkout to the backyard. Thank you in advance

A. Check houses in your area. They will be your competition when it comes to selling. Also a real estate sales person can tell you the trends in your area. A half bath suggests a leisure space or maybe a guest room to me.

(No Chosen Answer)